Running With The Bulls In Pamplona

The Ultimate Guide

 

This page is for the guys and girls that are thinking of running with the bulls it contains information about the bull run and some cracking video footage from last year’s bullruns. Make sure you study the videos so that you get an idea about how crowded it can get and how fast the bulls are. In addition read the aricles because it will help give you a feel about what running with the bulls is all about. I intend this page to be “The Ultimate Guide To The Bullrun” if it comes even a little close and helps people stay out of harm’s way than I will be a happy bunny. So let’s start with one of the runs from 2008, the first run on the 7th July. It is always a busy day as crowds of virgin runners hit the streets for the first run of the fiesta most of them knowing fuck all about how, why or where the bulls are coming from. So if you are going to run on the 7th with out watching a bullrun from a balcony first, you will be taking a bit of a risk, but you heard it here first! What you should do is to watch the video a couple of times and watch how the drama unfolds. In general a bullrun lasts about 2mins 30 seconds, if everything goes smoothly. This run lasts about 4 min 50 seconds. The reason is that half way down Mercaderes two of the bulls get entangled with a crowd of people pressing against the left hand side of the street and they go down. This separates them from the rest of the herd and this is when it gets dangerous. This means that for the runners further on in the course there will be two groups of bulls to worry about, the first 4 bulls running with the steers and the last two who are not taking prisoners. In these situations the bullring is also a very dangerous place.

 

 

 

 

The next day was a Tuesday so you still did not get a weekend crowd but you will have had all the runners who were too late for the run on the 7th. Those that had been cleared off by the police for being in the wrong place at the wrong time and all those who had watched the first day. So it will still be crowded. The thing to watch out for in this run is that one of the bulls is a strange colour that they call soap. Unfortunately it looks very similar to the colour of the steers. The group sticks together for most of the first half of the course but as the run gets to the end of Estafeta they are a bit strung out. However the bullrun lasts just over 2 and a half minutes. You see if you look closely one of the runners has a narrow escape just before the tunnel in Telephonica, where a bull a bit loose from the pack gets it’s horn entangled with the guy’s shirt. He was a very lucky guy that it was not a lot worse. The video below is from the 8th don’t let the title fool you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This next video is from the 9th July 2008 a Wednesday so it is midweek and the number of runners will have fallen. Less runners means more space to run and so the run should be quicker and safer. In fact this run took about 4.00 minutes. The bulls kept in a reasonably tight pack all the way up Santo Domingo, through the town hall square and into Mercaderes. When they turned into Estafeta they all stayed on their feet going round the curve (thanks to the new anti-slip paint they started putting down a few years ago). There was a bit of a entanglement just into Estafeta, but the bulls got up and the pack kept together. At one point one of the bulls was out in front leading the pack. Thus do not be surprised if it is a bull that comes through the crowd towards you first. It was at the top of Estafeta that the trouble started. They were all on schedule at that point. In fact this is one of the secrets in running with the bulls i.e. knowing the time at which the bulls should appear if they are on schedule. I always time it on my watch from when the rocket goes off and then I use another trick I know to confirm that they are just about there. I can then attempt my take off with a degree of certainty that the bulls are about to appear. You can learn these tricks by watching the video clips. Look and learn and if you think it is worthwhile then find me at night outside Bar Winsor in the Plaza Del Castillo or outside Bar Txoco after the run and buy me a drink!Just ask where Galloway is and anybody will point me out.

 

To get back to the story of the run on the 9th. The bull turns at the top of Estaftea and it is a firm rule for myself that if a bull turns and it is possible and safe to do so then get out of the street. Do not attempt this if you are close to the bull and your movement attracts his attention. But if you have the chance and a bull has turned anywhere close by then get over or under the nearest barrier. Don’t stop to think just do it. If you are stuck in the street and the bull has turned then make like a statue. His eyesight is shit poor and it is movement that he will go for. Watch out for the guys in green shirts with the big sticks they will lash out if you are getting too close. They have an important job to do and to keep the crowd back and ensure the bull will go the right way. In this run one of them nearly gets taken out by the bull and the other jump in to save him. At this point you see one of the runners pulling the bulls tail, this is only allowed in such circumstances to save somebody if you try it at any other time you will get beaten up and arrested.

 

When the bull has turned you can see all the expert runners, the ‘divinos’ trying to entice the bulls down into the bullring. If you focus on the bald guy in the centre, that is Medina one of the most famous runners. Eventually they entice the bull down the tunnel and into the arena. Trust me in these circumstances you want to be out of the street if at all possible.

 

 

 

The following article tells it all and if anything belongs in the Ultimate Guide to the Bullrun then this does!

 

The ABC’ s of Running with the Bulls in Pamplona

By Jack Barrett

(An Article form the No Bullshit Pamplona Fanzine published by The Pamplona Posse)

 

This article is not intended to be all inclusive, but is based on fourteen years of experience running with the bulls, as well as tips and advice from some great runners of all nationalities.  As a good reference, I would recommend the excellent book by Jim Hollander, “Run To The Sun”. It is available at amazon.com, or at most book stores in Pamplona.

 

 

A)     THE BASICS

 

          The Running of the Bulls is part of the Fiesta San Fermin, which takes place on the 6th to the 14th of July.  The Spanish name for the Running of the Bulls is el encierro, (enclosure).  There is an encierro on each day, from the 7th to the 14th.   It begins promptly at 8:00am.  In order to run, you must be on the course no later than 7:00am., and even earlier on weekends when it is very crowded.  There are some do’s and don’ts.  The most important do is if you fall down, cover your head and stay down until someone tells you it is safe to get up.  In 1995, a young American failed to follow this instruction, and paid the ultimate price.  Among the don’ts are bringing backpacks, cameras, purses, and anything else that could cause a problem for you or other runners. Do not touch the bulls, or run directly behind them, doing this could cause them to turn around. Do not run if you are not fit, or are under the influence.  If this is your first time, it would be better if you “stood” the bulls, standing on the side of the course to get a feel for how fast the animals can run.  There is no safe place on the course, just places that are less dangerous than others.

 

What to wear?  The standard outfit for San Fermin is a white shirt and pants, with a red scarf (pañuelo), and a red sash (faja).  For the run, however, I would recommend leaving the pañuelo, faja, belt, or anything else that some one or some thing could get hold of, at home.  A sleeveless shirt would work as well.  In Jim’s book there is a wonderful picture of a runner being carried up the street on the horns of a bull by his faja, head bouncing off the cobblestones with each stride.  If you feel you must wear the pañuelo and faja, at least tie them with a slip knot that will come loose if caught.  A very good pair of running shoes, tightly tied is also a must.

 

 

B)     THE COURSE.

         

          The course is about 850 meters long, and is mostly uphill. (For the metrically challenged, a meter is a little longer than a yard).  There are two hard turns, one to the left, and one to the right.  As an indication as to how fast the animals can run, the current Olympic record on a flat track for 800 meters is 1 minute, 42.6 seconds.  The bulls have run the 850 meters on cobblestone streets, uphill, in under 2 minutes.  The course is divided into six areas, Santo Domingo, Ayuntamiento, Mercaderes, Estafeta, Telefonica, and Plaza de Toros.  I will expand on running each of these areas later.

         

 

 

C)     THE PLAYERS

 

          Bulls (Toros)

          There are six bulls that will be released in the encierro.  They are at least four years old, and range in color from black, the most common, to black and white, grey, and some times red. They range in weight from about 500 kilos, (1100 lbs) to over 600 kilos, (1300 lbs).  A picture of the bulls in the days run can be found in the morning papers.  It is a good idea to familiarize your self with them before the run.   The bulls get to run the course only once, as they will be fought and killed in the bull fight (corrida) in the evening. 

 

          Steers (Cabestros)

          Six to eight steers are released with the bulls to give a semblance of a herd, and to guide the bulls over the course.  The bulls have no clue what is going on, but it seems like fun.  The steers are larger than the bulls, and usually have a bell around their neck.  They are mostly cream colored with black or dark brown spots.  The steers will not normally try to gore you, but they will run you over if you are in their way.  About two or three minutes after the first animals are released, another four steers are released to sweep up any bull(s) that have become separated from the herd.  If you are walking up or down the street after the bulls have passed, be aware that the sweeps are coming.  If you are still not sure about the difference between a bull and a steer, I would refer you to a Webster’s Dictionary for a more complete description.

 

          Vaquitas

          These are young cows, females that are released into the bull ring after the bulls are safely in their corrals.  More about them later.

 

          Pastores

          Pastores are teams of two or three men whose job it is to keep the bulls running in the direction of the Plaza de Toros.  They have lately been wearing green tee shirts with the word “PASTORE” on the back.  They carry 5 ft. long sticks which they will not hesitate to use on you if they think you are doing something that would cause a bull to turn around, like touching it, for instance.  The pastores play a critical role when a bull gets separated from the herd.  This is known as a suelto.  If a suelto should occur near you, do not try to be a hero or a clown, let the pastores handle the situation, which is what they are being paid to do.

         

          Police

          The police are there to control the crowd, and to remove from the course anyone who has no business being there, such as drunks, backpackers, etc.  They form a line at the bottom of Santo Domingo, and another part way up Mercaderes to allow other police to clear the course.  They release the line on Mercaderes about five minutes before the bulls are released so that the runners can go up the course to their favorite positions.  The police will be screening you as you walk up the street, so look alive.  Do not give the police a hard time, they are totally lacking in sensitivity training, and will suffer no insolence from anyone of high rank or low.  Give them the respect they deserve, they have, on occasion, saved the lives of runners in trouble, sometimes at great risk to their own.  

 

          Red Cross (Voluntarios de Cruz Roja)

          These are men and women who are trained in giving basic first aid to runners who are injured during the encierro.  They are stationed at various locations on the course, usually where there is room to form a double barricade.  If you have time before the run, it is a good idea to locate the one nearest your position; you may have to help bring an injured runner to them. 

 

          Dobladores

          The dobladores are men with good bullfighting knowledge (sometimes ex-bullfighters) who take up position in the bullring with capes to help the runners ‘fan out’ (in other words, run to the sides after they enter the bullring), and ‘drag’ the bulls towards the corral as quickly as possible.  Do nothing to impede their work. In 2007, one fool carrying a large camera bag collided with a dobladore right in front of a bull, almost getting both of them killed.  He was fined 6,000 euros for that stunt.   

 

         

 

 

D)     THE RUN

 

          As mentioned above, the run begins at 8:00am, with the firing of two rockets.  The first rocket goes off when the gates to the corral are opened, and the second goes off when the last bull leaves the corral.  If there is a long period between the rockets, say 30 seconds or more, it probably means that a bull was late getting out of the corral, and may have become separated from the herd.  If this occurs, discretion being the better part of valor, if you can safely get off the course without interfering with the police or Red Cross, now would be a good time to do it.  The run ends at the Plaza de Toros with the firing of another two rockets.  The first rocket goes off when the first bulls enter the ring, and the second when all of the bulls are safely in the corral.  Even if the bulls have passed you, listen for the second rocket before you start wondering around on the street, you may get an unpleasant surprise.  In the famous words of Yogi Berra, “It ain’t over till it’s over”.

 

          Santo Domingo and the Suicide Run.

          (Note: all reference directions except the suicide run are in the direction of the Plaza de Toros.)

 

          Of all the places on the course, Santo Domingo is the last place you want to find your self if this is your first run.  It is extremely narrow, about nine meters wide, actually a canyon between a former hospital on the left, and a Cathedral on the right.  There is almost no place to escape except flat against the wall or down on the sidewalk.  The bulls are coming at top speed, and are usually hooking.  You have no hope of outrunning them.

 

          The Suicide Run

          In earlier, less crowded years, the runners at the bottom of Santo Domingo would run down toward the bulls coming up from the corral,  turn and run up the street in front of the bulls, then dive for cover.  Lately the police have been discouraging this, telling you that you must either run down or run up, but not both.  I suppose this is to prevent a collision of runners.  Unless you are directly behind the line of police, I would recommend you discuss with the runners in front and behind you, which way they are going to run.  On weekends when it is very crowded, the police will form a line just above the corral, then move the runners back up hill until you are about even with where the wall of the hospital meets the wooden barricade on the right looking down toward the corral.  If you want to run down, you should try to get just behind the line of police.  The city does a fairly good job of cleaning the streets, but if you are going to run down, you might want to check under the barricades on the right and left for broken glass, you may have to go under one of them.  At 5 minutes before the first rocket, the runners sing a prayer to San Fermin to protect them.  They sing again at 2 minutes, and 1 minute before the rocket.  Sometimes there is a disconnect between the watch of the person leading the singing and the guy lighting the rocket, and the bulls have come out while we have our backs to them singing the prayer.  If this happens, stop singing!  When the rocket goes off, and the bulls come out, the police will try to maintain the line until the bulls are at least half way up the street.  As you can imagine, panic breaks out, and the police are shoved out of the way.  They then disappear into openings in the barricades on both the left and right sides.  If you run down, run as close to the herd as you dare, than leap sideways against the barricades.  If things really unravel, there is no shame in going under or over the barricades.

 

          Santo Domingo

          As mentioned above, this is no place for beginners or sensitive hearts.  Excluding the Suicide, the run begins at the bottom of Santo Domingo, goes uphill for about 100 meters, and ends at the opening to the Ayuntamiento, (City Hall).  It is extremely narrow, with no place to escape.  No matter where you are at, the bulls are going to come very close to you, even if you are just “standing”.  You have been warned!

 

          Ayuntamiento (aka City Hall or Plaza Consistorial)

          This run starts at the top of Santo Domingo, and ends at the beginning of Mercaderes.  This is the first good place to stand the bulls, along the barricade on the left.  For reasons best known to the steers, the herd tends to hold to the right side of the course, and the police don’t mind if you decide to bale out and climb up the barricade, but only after the bulls are on the street.  If you run, the bulls are still very fast and you will only stay in front of them for seconds.  Again, the herd, most of the time, hold to the right hand side of the street, that’s the side to be on if you really want to run with them.  If you run on the left side, be aware that the wall at the start of Mercaderes extends out about a foot into the course. Once in awhile a friend of mine has forgotten about this, and has run smack into it, with the resulting trip to the nearest Red Cross station.

 

          Mercaderes

          This run starts as the herd makes a left turn onto Mercaderes, and ends after the herd has made the hard right turn at La Curva.  The first problem here is that you are running right into the sun, thus the title of Jim’s book.  I don’t know what effect it has on the animals, but it will definitely have an effect on you.  You are suddenly blinded, and slightly disoriented.  This is also a place where a suelto may occur, as the bulls negotiate the hard left turn.  There are walls and doorways on the left, and a barricade on the right.  The bulls are only slightly slower here, so your run will be a quick one.  At the end of the street is La Curva, a wall which forces the herd to make a sharp right hand turn.  You do not want to be standing in front of this wall.  Lately, most of the bulls have made it around the curve without falling, but when they do, even some photographers on top of the wall have been hurt.  If you are standing there, and a bull falls, you are toast.  Some runners wait on the left side of the street just at the start of the curve, hoping to find a space in between the six bulls to jump into.   They will start to run as soon as they see the herd make the turn onto Mercaderes, and hope for the best. 

 

 

          Estafeta

          Estafeta is a long street, about 300 meters, uphill.  There are boarded up store fronts and doorways along both the right and left side.  Some years ago, the sidewalks were removed with good and not so good results.  Runners on the lower half of Estafeta are usually waiting for an opportunity to get into the herd after they slow down for La Curva.  The herd usually, but not always hugs the left side of the street, so if you are standing on that side, be prepared to have the horns come very close to your gut.  As you get almost to the top of Estafeta, you will see the really great runners, David and Julen to name two, sort of come out of the wood work, and magically appear right on the horns of the lead bull.  By the time the bulls get up here, they are usually moving at a speed by which a very good runner can stay in front of the horns all the way into the Plaza de Toros.  If you waiting to run on the upper half of Estafeta, unless you are seven feet tall, you will not be able to see the bulls until they are almost on top of you.  You can listen for the bells on the steers, but the steers might not be leading the herd.  One tip I’ve learned is to watch the people on the balconies taking pictures.  They are most likely taking pictures of the lead bull, so by watching the angle of their cameras, you can get a good idea where it is at.  Don’t feel bad if you do not get out with the herd.  This takes a lot of skill, and a little luck.

 

          Telefonica and the Callejon

          At the top of Estafeta, the course widens out, and is flanked by barricades on both sides of the street.  This is the area called Telefonica.  If you are planning to run into the Plaza de Toros with the bulls, this is the place to start from.  The bulls are probably moving as slow as they are ever going to go, although this is still very fast.  There are however, great opportunities for a suelto up here, and when you read the statistics from the previous run, Telefonica usually wins the prize for the most number of runners patched up by the Red Cross, or taken to the hospital.  The run starts at the very top of Estafeta, and continues through the very narrow tunnel, (3.6 meters wide), under the bull ring called the Callejon.  The Callejon is where most of the trouble starts as you try to get 6 bulls, 8 steers and about 100 runners through a very narrow passage into the Plaza de Toros.  If you look at some photos of runs in the past, you will see some epic pileups called a Monton, in the Callejon.  You do not want to be part of these.  The run through the Callejon is slightly down hill, and at the entrance to the Plaza de Toros you transition from concrete to sand.  This contributes to runners falling and creating a Monton right at the entrance to the Plaza de Toros.  Be aware of this.

 

Plaza de Toros

Once you enter the Plaza de Toros, the run is over and it is time to get out.  You will meet the dobladores who are trying to lure the bulls into the corral by dragging their capes over the ground in front of the bulls.  Do nothing that would interfere with them, you are not a torero, so don’t try to be one.  Turn right or left and get behind the barriers as fast as you can.  After the bulls are safely in their corrals, the officials release two or three vaquitas into the ring.  They are young females, and are absolutely adorable with big brown eyes.  They do, however, weight about as much as a NFL defensive tackle, and can run twice as fast.  They are also very efficient in using their horns. In 2005 a young American was hit by one, and is just now learning how to walk again.  I recommend leaving them alone.  But, if you feel you would enjoy being clocked by a NFL tackle running at top speed, by all means go out and play with the vaquitas.  Otherwise, get out of the Plaza and head for the Bar Txoko for the “Breakfast of Champions”, (Kaiku Vanil con cognac).   Suerte!

 

 

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